11.02.2006: Saab NG900 Manual Transmission Installation

We have a new home on Github! Go right ahead to bookmark and contribute... Or stay here if you like 2000's websites.

11.02.2006: Saab NG900 Manual Transmission Installation

Home

[..^ up ^..]

Manual transmission installation on a 1996 Saab 900 (applies to all 1994-1998 900 and 1999-2002 9-3). The goal was to install a new clutch and replace the transmission with a newer, stronger unit. This article covers gearbox installation only, for removal refer to this section.

Tools:

24 mm socket: transmission fill plug (9-3);
22 mm crowfoot wrench: O2 sensors;
19 mm socket: flywheel bolts;
18 mm socket: transmission, subframe bolts;
18 mm wrench: ball joint nuts;
17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
16 mm socket: subframe bolts, engine mounts;
15 mm socket: transmission mount bolts, control arms (optional);
13 mm socket: exhaust, downpipe, shift linkage, battery;
13 mm wrench: delivery pipe bolt;
12 mm socket: pressure plate bolts;
11 mm socket: flywheel cover bolts, subframe brace nuts;
10 mm socket: battery base bolts;
9 mm wrench: battery terminals (13 mm on 9-3);
8 mm Allen socket: transmission drain plug;
8 mm hex screwdriver: lower shield screws;
7 mm hex screwdriver: delivery pipe hose clamps (or a flat screwdriver);
3 mm L-shaped Allen key: transmission lock;
engine support beam or engine crane;
car jacks and axle stands;
pressure bleeder and fresh brake fluid;
hand pump and a 40..50 cm long piece of clear tubing (if slave bleeding is needed);
fresh gearbox oil;
breaker bar.

	11.02.2006 Transmission The replacement transmission came from a 1999 9-3. It's an FM55 505 model, while the original gearbox on the car was FM55 501.		11.02.2006 Left side The new gearbox came from a scrap yard, so it's a good idea to replace both differential seals.
	11.02.2006 Seals Pry the new seal out using a big screwdriver or a chisel. It's not necessary to remove the entire cover, but I find it easier than doing it right on the gearbox.		11.02.2006 Cover in Carefully push the new seal in, use a rubber mallet if needed. Install the cover back on and tighten the bolts to 16 ft-lbs with a Torx T40 socket.
	11.02.2006 Right side Do the same on the right side of the differential.		11.02.2006 Seals The bag shows a GM part number (useful if your dealer uses those, like they do in Canada). The Saab part is #8749046.
	11.02.2006 Rear mount Attach the rear engine mount (30 ft-lbs, 16 mm socket). For a later transmission model, the mount bracket might be different -- check the compatibility if you're upgrading to a newer gearbox.		11.02.2006 Pipe Time to bleed the slave cylinder. Push the throwout bearing in slowly to compress the piston inside it. When you let go, the bearing will spring back out, but the piston will remain compressed.
	11.02.2006 Brake fluid Attach a 40..50 cm piece of clear tubing to nipple on top of the slave cylinder. Fill the tube with brake fluid to ¾ of its height.		11.02.2006 Pressure Pump some air into the tube. The slave cylinder will expand, and you will see the fluid level dropping. When the cylinder maxes out, the fluid will stop and the pressure will go up. Release the pressure and compress the slave again. You might see small air bubbles coming out.
	11.02.2006 Bleeding finished Repeat the process several times, add more brake fluid if necessary. When you don't see the bubbles anymore, detach the hose (careful not to spill the fluid all over) and plug the nipple.		11.02.2006 Ready Lock the transmission in third gear. Make sure you can undo the fill and drain plugs (but keep them in). Lubricate the shaft splines. The gearbox is ready for installation.
	11.02.2006 New clutch I am installing a Viggen pressure plate with a SPEC stage2 kevlar clutch plate. The clutch conveniently comes with an alignment tool.		11.02.2006 Flywheel Inspect the flywheel. If it's visibly scratched or scored, or has cracks on the surface, you need to take it to a machine shop for resurfacing. Torque the bolts to 59 ft-lbs.
	11.02.2006 Alignment tool Install the clutch with the pressure plate and put the bolts in hand-tight. Insert the alignment tool and make sure the clutch plate it perfectly centered. Tighten the bolts alternately to 16 ft-lbs (12 mm socket).		11.02.2006 Jacks A specialized transmission jack or a shop crane is preferred, but a pair of regular hydraulic jacks will do the job. Make sure the transmission is balanced, roll it under the car and raise to the engine level.
	11.02.2006 Left side Push the transmission in. Remember that you have to match the splines on the clutch plate and the intermediate shaft in the same time. If necessary, turn the flywheel and/or the driveshaft on the right side. The picture shows the brake line disconnected, it was a part of another job.		11.02.2006 Fitted The transmission should be perfectly level with the engine in order to go in. Again, a lower control arm bolt works well as a guiding pin. Once you close the gap and the intermediate shaft snaps in on the other side, replace the front bolt with a proper one and tighten it.
	11.02.2006 Upper bolts The three upper bolts are easily accessible from the wheel well, just use a longer extention. Don't forget the fifth bolt in the rear. The torque for these is 50 ft-lbs (18 mm socket).		11.02.2006 Clutch line Remove the cap from the slave cylinder nipple and attach the clutch line. If you have a cable clutch, attach the cable.
	11.02.2006 Clutch line Insert a locking clip to secure the clutch line. The nipple in front will be used to bleed the clutch once the job is done.		11.02.2006 Bracket Attach the bracket for the transmission mount, as well as the mount itself (30 ft-lbs, 16 mm socket).
	11.02.2006 Support beam Raise the engine until the transmission mount fits its position on the side member.		11.02.2006 Mount Tighten the transmission mount bolts to 46 ft-lbs (15 mm socket). Attach the ground wires to the mount bracket, and to the side of the gearbox (17 mm and 13 mm sockets).
	11.02.2006 Driveshaft Insert the driveshaft until the snap ring clicks. Plug in the reverse gear sensor wire.		11.02.2006 Flywheel cover Install the flywheel cover (two 11 mm bolts).
	11.02.2006 Linkage Attach the linkage to the gearshift rod on the transmission (13 mm bolt), connect the arm to the ball pin and insert the shifter rod into its housing. After the entire installation is finished, the shifter needs to be aligned.		11.02.2006 Subframe Position the subframe for installation.
	11.02.2006 Front bolts First, raise the front end and screw the bolts in hand-tight.		11.02.2006 Washers Place the washers on the stanchion arm attachment points.
	11.02.2006 Rear end Jack up the rear end, insert the remaining bolts and align the subframe so it matches the position it was in before the removal. Connect the ball joints and tighten to 55 ft-lbs (18 mm wrench).		11.02.2006 Subframe bolts Tighten the four corner bolts using a 16 mm socket: front to 85 ft-lbs and rear to 78 ft-lbs + 90°. Tighten the middle bolts to 141 ft-lbs (18 mm socket). If you had to remove the control arms, they need a 15 mm socket at 85 ft-lbs.
	11.02.2006 Rear mount Tighten the nuts on the rear engine mount to 37 ft-lbs (16/17 mm socket).		11.02.2006 Beam removed Remove the engine support beam.
	11.02.2006 Downpipe Attach the downpipe to the turbo (three 13 mm nuts at 18.5 ft-lbs). Install the front O2 sensor (22 mm crowfoot wrench, 41 ft-lbs).		11.02.2006 Exhaust Install the rear O2 sensor (22 mm crowfoot wrench, 41 ft-lbs). Seal the joint to the flexpipe and tighten the clamp to 15 ft-lbs (13 mm socket). Install the subframe brace if equipped.
	11.02.2006 Delivery pipe Install the delivery pipe and tighten the hose clamps. Attach the hoses to the bypass valve. Bleed the clutch, shift the transmission to fourth gear and align the shifter linkage.		11.02.2006 Gearbox oil Fill the gearbox with oil (flush twice if switching to synthetic). Install the battery. Attach the lower shields. Fit the wheels (81 ft-lbs) and lower the car to the ground.

[expand all]