The job took me several days, as you can see from the dates on the photos. Unfortunately, I was short on spare time and could only spend a couple of hours a day in the evening. With all the tools at hand, proper preparations, and without the unexpected interruptions, the work can be done in one day. A second person would speed things up as well.

Tools and supplies:

• 32 mm (1¼") socket: hub centre nut;
• 24 mm wrench: retainer nut on top of the strut, new outer bushing bolt;
• 18 mm socket: tie rod nut;
• 18 mm wrench: ball joint nut;
• 17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
• 16 mm socket: stanchion arm to subframe bolt;
• 15 mm socket: control arm to subframe bolt;
• 13 mm socket: lower sway bar link nut, strut mount nuts;
• 11 mm socket: top of the original damper rod;
• 11 mm open wrench: upper part of sway bar link;
• 10 mm socket: belt shield screws;
• 10 mm Allen key: caliper bolts;
• 8 mm socket: belt shield screws;
• 7 mm Allen key: top of the Bilstein damper rod;
• 5 mm Allen key: ABS sensor screws, rotor index screw;
• Torx T55 key: original stanchion arm to control arm bolt;
• torque wrench;
• pipe wrench (60 mm): strut insert sleeve nut;
• car jack and axle stands;
• ball joint separator or large Pitman gear puller;
• spring compressor;
• C-clamp: for tightening tie rod ends;
• breaker bar;
• vice-grips;
• large screw extractor (6 mm);
• hammer and rubber mallet;
• loctite, anti-seize, silicone/moly chassis grease, rust solvent.