It is a good idea to have a fresh rubber O-ring and a new clamp when
replacing the inlet pipe.
Remove the clamp on the bypass valve, undo the screw on the lower end
of the return pipe and remove the pipe.
Undo the 13 mm nut on the heat shield overthe turbo and unlatch the spring
clamps grabbing onto the studs on the manifold.
Reach down and loosen the Torx T30 bolt on the clamp holding the inlet
pipe to the turbo. If it's rusted - just break it, you have a replacement.
Lift the protective sleeve and unplug the electrical connector on the
boost control valve (BPC).
Slide the BPC from the guides and move it aside.
Unbolt the banjo bolt on the PCV pipe, detach the pipe from the valve cover.
Unscrew the inlet pipe from the bracket and loosen the intake hose clamp.
Pull the inlet pipe off the intake hose. Detach the vacuum line on the back.
Lift the pipe making sure the old O-ring did not get stuck on the turbo.
Old vs new
The Taliaferro pipe is noticeably larger. Its turbo flange also has a wider
opening to accommodate upgraded turbos rebuilt to the 18T or 19T spec.
Grease the O-ring, seat it on the pipe and connect the pipe to the
compressor housing on the turbo. Make sure that bolt holes on the bracket
are aligned before tightening the clamp.
Bolt the pipe to the bracket, insert the banjo bolt and connect the intake
hose. The vacuum nipple on the pipe was a bit larger than stock, so I had
to find a thicker elbow.
Screw the vent pipe to the valve cover.
Fit the BPC and plug in the connector.
Attach the heat shield over the turbo, tighten the nut.
The original aluminium return pipe doesn't fit anymore. Taliaferro offers
a pretty silicone piece to replace it. I had this rubber return line from
NG900, and it worked just fine.