A freshly cleaned and polished head, just from an engine rebuilder.
Fresh valve seals go in first. Dip them in oil before installing.
A seal just slides on the end of the valve guide. An 11 mm socket is a
perfect tool for tapping them on.
Close-up of a seal installed.
There are four valves per cylinder. The intakes are slightly larger.
Springs and washers
The spring is sandwiched between two washers. The upper washer has a conical
collar wrapping around two collets that hold the valve stem.
The valve is in the socket, the rest is ready to follow. A dab of
grease on the inside of the collets will make them stick to the valve stem
and ease the installation.
Valve spring compressor
Install the lower washer, the spring and the upper washer.
Use a spring compressor to clamp the spring against the valve.
When the spring is compressed, there's just enough room to insert the
collets using a pair of thin curved needle-nose pliers. Here's when
the grease on the collets comes in handy.
The universal spring compressor I got from an auto parts store could not
reach far enough, so I had to improvise by making this U-shaped bracket.
The walls around the spring should be protected from scratches since they
act as sealing surfaces for hydraulic tappets.
Measure the depth from the camshaft bearing surface to the valve stem.
It should be between 19.5 and 20.5 mm.
Install the hydraulic tappets. Give them an oil bath before putting
The camshaft bearing caps are numbered, but have rather bizarre markings.
My rebuilder marked them in a different fashion that was easier to read.
Put the head on wooden blocks so the valves won't be hitting the desk.
Lubricate the camshaft and put it in.
Lubricate the bearing caps before they go in. The inner side bolts on the
four caps above the cylinders have oil passages in them.
Tighten the bolts to 11 ft-lbs, starting with the cap closest to the cams
pressing down on the tappets (12 mm socket). Install the second camshaft.
Attach the cover over the distributor cap hole (on turbo engines).