The car is on jack stands. The subframe and gearbox are already
and the engine is hanging on the support beam.
Unplug the connector and the vacuum hose from the manifold absolute
pressure sensor. Alternatively, you can unbolt the sensor. I just removed
it with the strut bar to free up some room.
Remove the airbox and the rubber part of the turbo inlet hose.
Insert a long ½" extention into the tensioner socket and
release the belt. Lock it with a 2 mm Allen key or a nail. Remove the belt.
Undo three bolts holding the steering pump to the engine (13 mm wrench).
Bend the hoses and move the pump out of the way.
Unscrew the boost pressure control valve (Torx T25) and detach its cable
from the fender. Put the valve and the cable on the engine.
Cruise control unit
Unplug the cruise control unit connector. Detach the control unit (two
plastic 10 mm nuts), lift it and move it aside.
Fuel tank vent line
Release the clamp and detach the fuel tank vent hose from the back of the
The rubber fuel lines are attached to the fuel rail via a special locking
joint. The release mechanism is covered by a rubber plug.
Fuel line cap
Use curved needle nose pliers to pull the rubber plug out of the joint
and move it up the pipe so it doesn't get in the way.
Get a 8 mm (5/16") fuel disconnect tool (it looks like a hollow plastic
cone with a rim) and put it on the line. Push it down the joint until you
hear a click.
Wiggle the hose while pushing the disconnect tool in, and the joint will
come apart. There might be some fuel left in the lines so have a catch
can ready. Repeat with the second line, plug the hoses.
Detach the accelerator cable from the throttle body. Detach the cruise
Brake booster hose
Unbolt the brake booster hose from the intake manifold.
If you need the access to the flywheel or the main seal, remove the pressure
plate now (12 mm socket). Most engine stands bolt to the gearbox mouting
holes, and there will be little room to reach the clutch.
The flywheel is held by eight big 19 mm bolts. In order to get them off, you
need to attach a flywheel stop or otherwise ensure that the crankshaft
Unscrew the radiator drain plug (13 mm wrench) and drain the coolant.
Detach coolant hoses from the driver's side of the engine (flat screwdriver
or 7 mm socket). More coolant will come out of the heater core hoses,
so have a pan ready.
Remove the lower radiator hose from the passenger side of the engine. If
you unhook the lower part of the hose, be ready for more coolant spills.
Remove the intercooler hose from the compressor outlet on the turbo.
Drain engine oil (13 mm socket). Don't pour it down the drain, bring it
to the nearby recycling facility (around here, Canadian Tire collects
used oil free of charge).
Oil cooler lines
Unbolt the oil cooler lines from the oil filter housing (22 mm wrench).
Some oil will drain from those. Undo the lower A/C compressor bolt (16 mm).
Unbolt the two upper A/C compressor bolts. Unplug the compressor clutch
control wire from the connector on the radiator.
Lower the compressor (it's quite heavy) and hang it off the towing hook.
Be careful not to bend the lines too much.
Inside the car, remove the glovebox and locate the wire cluster coming
from the engine. One half goes to the ECU, while another feeds the data
to the dashboard. Unplug both.
Pull the rubber gromet in the firewall and carefully retrieve the ECU
harness through the opening. Put it on the engine.
Unplug the connector from the EVAP valve.
Detach the positive battery cable from the fuse box (10 mm socket).
Remove the passenger side axle by tapping it gently from behind, until
it comes off the shaft.
Bring the crane and lift the engine slightly so it takes the weight
off the support beam and the remaining engine mount.
Unbolt the passenger side engine mount (15 mm socket). Be careful as the engine
might shift suddenly when you remove the last bolt.
With the crane holding the engine, you don't need the support beam anymore.
Remove the beam (in my case the lifting hook got stuck in the chain, so
we just left it there).
Lift the engine out of the car. Watch closely while lifting it, to
ensure you won't break anything.
Attach the lifting plate from the engine stand (if you're planning to put
the engine on the stand). Some of the bolt holes required unusually long
bolts, the ones that came with my stand were too short.
Lower the engine and secure it on the stand. I had a friend helping out
with the engine removal. It's always a good idea to have a second
pair of hands while doing serious work like this.
On the stand
Engine out. Job done.