Inner CV boot replacement on a 1996 Saab 900SE turbo. The repair had to be done because the old boot developed a crack and started leaking grease.

Tools and supplies:

  • new CV boot kit: boot, clamps and grease;
  • 32 mm (1¼") socket: hub centre nut;
  • 17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
  • 15 mm socket: control arm to subframe bolt;
  • 13 mm socket: lower sway bar link nut;
  • 11 mm open wrench: upper part of sway bar link;
  • 10 mm Allen key: caliper bolts;
  • 5 mm Allen key: rotor index screw;
  • snap ring pliers;
  • torque wrench;
  • car jack and axle stands;
  • breaker bar;
  • hammer.
Wheel removed

With the car still on the ground, remove the centre cap from the wheel and loosen the hub nut using a 32 mm socket (a 1¼" will do) and a breaker bar. Loosen the wheel bolts while you're at it too (17 mm socket). Raise the car and remove the wheel.
Control arm

Remove the brake caliper (10 mm Allen) and rotor (5 mm Allen). Now you can choose to either separate the ball joint or unbolt the control arm from the subframe. I find the control arm to be easier.

Tilt the strut and pull the driveshaft out of the hub.
Inner joint

The inner CV joint is located right above the subframe. These grease splatters are an indication of the leaky boot.

Cut the clamps and separate the shaft. It's much easier than the outer joint, this one just pulls right out.

Looks like my old boot was held by plastic wire ties, and there wasn't much grease left.
Snap ring

Remove the snap ring on top of the shaft and gently tap the tripod bearing until it comes off. It's VERY tight.

Once the bearing is removed, you can pull the boot off and wipe everything thoroughly.
Boot kit

The kit comes with a new boot, two rather awkward clamps and a bag of fresh grease.

Clean the companion flange too.
Fresh grease

Assemble the joint and fill it with fresh grease.

Pull the boot over the companion flange and crimp the clamps tightly. Refer to this guide for tightening torque for suspension bolts.

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