30.09.2007: Saab 9-5 Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

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30.09.2007: Saab 9-5 Rear Trailing Arm Bushings

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Rear trailing arm bushing replacement on a Saab 9-5. A set of polyurethane bushings is being installed to replace the worn out old rubber pieces and improve cornering stability.

Saab sells replacement bushings with aluminium sleeves and supplies a set of tools to get them in and out. We're installing aftermarket polyurethane inserts, which are much easier to get in, but the old bushing still needs to be pressed out of the arm. With no Saab tools handy, we will be using the trusty hacksaw and gear puller combo.

Tools:

21 mm socket: lower shock bolt (optional);
18 mm socket: bushing housing bolts;
17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
16 mm socket: anti-roll bar link bolts;
10 mm socket: brake line and cable bracket bolts;
torque wrench;
car jack and axle stands;
breaker bar;
gear puller;
hacksaw;
hammer and rubber mallet.

30.09.2007: Jack stands

Raise the car and secure it on jack stands. Take the wheels off. Both wheels need to be in the air so the suspension is level.

30.09.2007: Link

Detach the anti-roll bar link from the trailing arm.

30.09.2007: Bracket

Unscrew the bracket supporting the brake line and handbrake cable. There should be no tension in the handbrake, so don't forget to release it when you raise the car.

30.09.2007: Shock

The Saab Workshop Manual does not mention unbolting the shock, but I found that it allows for more freedom to move the arm around. Use a big breaker bar to loosen this bolt.

30.09.2007: Jack

Support the trailing arm with a jack so it won't strain the brake line when you unbolt it from the car.

30.09.2007: Housing

Undo three 18 mm bolts holding the bushing housing to the car. Carefully lower the jack, support the brake line separately.

30.09.2007: Clamp

Before taking on the bolt that goes through the bushing, clamp the housing to the trailing arm. This will make it easier to loosen the nut.

30.09.2007: Bush

Pull the bolt out and slide the housing off the bushing. The housing is tied to the handbrake cable, just let it hang off it.

30.09.2007: Gear puller

Push the rubber part of the bushing out using a gear puller or another suitable tool.

30.09.2007: Hacksaw

Assemble the hacksaw with a blade inside the bushing and cut through the soft aluminium sleeve.

30.09.2007: Sleeve

Chisel the sleeve out and discard the old bushing. Clean the inside of the hole and all the contact surfaces.

30.09.2007: New bushings

New polyurethane bushing from Powerflex. Comes with a stainless inner sleeve and a bag of grease.

30.09.2007: Fitted

Lubricate the bushing, slide in the polyurethane halves first, then the inner sleeve.

30.09.2007: Housing

Fit the housing, clamp it to the arm and tighten the nut to 70 ft-lbs +60°.

30.09.2007: Lifted

Lift the trailing arm using a jack until the bushing enters its socket on the underside on the car.

30.09.2007: Bolted on

Position the housing as close to the original location as possible and tighten the bolts to 66 ft-lbs +30°.

30.09.2007: Bracket

Re-attach the brake line bracket. These thin M6 screws broke off on both sides when I took them out, so I had to re-drill and tap the holes again. Put the screws on anti-seize.

30.09.2007: Link

Tighten the anti-roll bar link bolt to 40 ft-lbs. Re-fit the lower shock bolt if you unbolted it (140 ft-lbs). Tighten the wheels to 81 ft-lbs and lower the car to the ground.

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