21.01.2006: Saab NG900 Manual Transmission Removal

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21.01.2006: Saab NG900 Manual Transmission Removal

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Manual transmission removal on a 1996 Saab 900 (applies to all 1994-1998 900 and 1999-2002 9-3). The goal was to install a new clutch and replace the transmission with a newer, stronger unit. This article covers gearbox removal only, for installation refer to this section.

Tools:

22 mm crowfoot wrench: O2 sensors;
19 mm socket: flywheel bolts;
18 mm socket: transmission, subframe bolts;
18 mm wrench: ball joint nuts;
17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
16 mm socket: subframe bolts, engine mounts;
15 mm socket: transmission mount bolts, control arms (optional);
13 mm socket: exhaust, downpipe, shift linkage, battery;
13 mm wrench: delivery pipe bolt;
12 mm socket: pressure plate bolts;
11 mm socket: flywheel cover bolts, subframe brace nuts;
10 mm socket: battery base bolts;
9 mm wrench: battery terminals (13 mm on 9-3);
8 mm Allen socket: transmission drain plug;
8 mm hex screwdriver: lower shield screws;
7 mm hex screwdriver: delivery pipe hose clamps (or a flat screwdriver);
3 mm L-shaped Allen key: transmission lock;
engine support beam or engine crane;
car jacks and axle stands;
breaker bar.

	21.01.2006 Battery Disconnect both cables from the battery (negative first!). Unscrew the 13 mm bolt at the battery base.		21.01.2006 Battery base Lift the battery and store it in a safe place. Unbolt the battery mounting plate (two 10 mm bolts) and remove it from the car.
	21.01.2006 Delivery pipe Release the hose clamp on the lower end of the delivery pipe. Unhook the vacuum line from the bypass valve (as well as the return hose if you have it).		21.01.2006 Delivery pipe Remove the hose clamp from the throttle body side of the delivery pipe. Unbolt the pipe from the engine (13 mm wrench).
	21.01.2006 Delivery pipe Remove the delivery pipe from the car. Plug the intercooler hose and throttle body inlet to keep the dirt away.		21.01.2006 Fourth gear Move the shifter into fourth gear.
	21.01.2006 Transmission lock Remove the plastic plug on top of the transmission and insert a thin L-shaped Allen key to lock it in gear.		21.01.2006 Linkage Use a 13 mm socket with a long extention to loosen the nut on the shifter linkage.
	21.01.2006 Third gear Move the shifter into third gear position to separate the shifting rod from the linkage.		21.01.2006 Cable If you have a cable clutch, unhook the cable from the lever on top of the transmission. If it is hydraulic, pull the clip to detach the clutch line from its nipple and quickly plug it to minimize fluid loss.
	21.01.2006 Cable Pull the cable from its seat on the other end of the transmission.		21.01.2006 Reverse switch Unplug the reverse gear switch.
	21.01.2006 Wheels Loosen wheel nuts (17 mm wrench).		21.01.2006 In the air Raise the front of the car, remove the wheels, take off the plastic shields under the bumper.
	21.01.2006 Brace Remove the subframe brace if equipped (11 mm socket for MP Performance version).		21.01.2006 Exhaust joint Unscrew the rear O2 sensor (22 mm crowfoot socket), remove the clamp from the exhaust pipe (13 mm socket). Unbolt the two rear engine mount nuts sitting in the round holes in the subframe (16/17 mm socket).
	21.01.2006 Downpipe Unbolt the front O2 sensor (22 mm crowfoot) and detach the downpipe from the turbo (three 13 mm nuts).		21.01.2006 Downpipe Unhook the rubber hangers and remove the downpipe from the car.
	21.01.2006 Linkage Unbolt the linkage from the shifter rod on the transmission (13 mm socket).		21.01.2006 Linkage Detach the linkage support arm from the ball pin on the differential housing (or pull it from the eye on the mount if you have an old-style linkage).
	21.01.2006 Linkage Remove the gearshift linkage from the car.		21.01.2006 Engine support Unbolt the rear engine mount from the subframe, install an engine support beam on the fenders, attach it to the lifting hook on the head and pull up slightly to ensure it takes the weight of the engine.
	21.01.2006 Subframe bolts Start removing the subframe bolts. The rear bolts holding the stanchion arms take a 16 mm socket, the middle ones are 18 mm.		21.01.2006 Subframe bolts The bolts in front have a 16 mm head as well. With all bols removed, the subframe will be hanging on just the ball joints.
	21.01.2006 Ball joint You can usually separate the ball joints by unscrewing the nut a bit, and hitting the knuckle with a heavy hammer (the weight of the subframe helps to release the ball joints).		21.01.2006 Jack If the ball joints cannot be defeated, unbolt the control arms from the subframe. Jack it up so it doesn't drop to the ground right away.
	21.01.2006 Subframe Lower the subframe to the ground and drag it away. In my case, I succeeded in separating one ball joint, and unbolted the control arm on the other side.		21.01.2006 Subframe bolts The subframe bolts left to right: rear, middle, front. Don't lose the washers that go between the subframe and the body above the stanchion arms.
	21.01.2006 Transmission oil With the subframe out of the way, it's now easy to remove tha drain plug (8 mm Allen socket) and drain the transmission oil.		21.01.2006 Driveshaft Prop a wide flat chisel against the differential housing and push on the other end to pop the driveshaft. It should slide right out.
	21.01.2006 Driveshaft Suspend the driveshaft (or remove it completely if you unbolted the axle nut).		21.01.2006 Flywheel cover Unbolt the flywheel cover at the bottom of the transmission (two 11 mm bolts).
	21.01.2006 Upper bolts Remove the three upper bolts attaching the transmission to the engine (18 mm socket).		21.01.2006 Transmission mount Detach the small wire on the side of the transmission (13 mm socket). Unbolt the transmission mount from the body (two 15 mm bolts), lower the engine slightly to free up the mount.
	21.01.2006 Mount bracket Unhook the big ground wire from the transmission (17 mm socket). Unbolt the bracket from the transmission (and the mount itself from the bracket if it helps to remove it).		21.01.2006 Rear bolt Remove the rear transmission bolt (18 mm socket).
	21.01.2006 Lowering Lower the engine as much as needed to get a good access to the transmission.		21.01.2006 Jacks If you don't have a specialized transmission jack, a couple of regular ones will support it from below. Just make sure it's balanced right so it won't slide sideways and fall to the ground when you detach it from the engine.
	21.01.2006 Front bolt Undo the last bolt holding the transmission. If you were lucky enough to detach a control arm from the subframe, you can use its bolt as a guiding pin in place of the shorter original bolt. Gently pry the transmission away from the engine.		21.01.2006 Transmission down The main shaft will slide right out, but the intermediate shaft might not want to separate, so in the worst case you'll have to unbolt it from the block under the alternator. Lower the transmission to the ground.
	24.06.2006 Crane A shop crane makes transmission removal much easier. Older gearboxes have one hole for a lifting eye, newer ones might have two.		21.01.2006 Transmission Move the transmission away and unbolt the rear engine mount bracket if you're planning to transfer it to a new gearbox.
	21.01.2006 Pressure plate The flywheel will turn a bit, so you might need to came up with a way to hold it in place while unbolting the pressure plate (six 12 mm bolts).		21.01.2006 Flywheel If the flywheel is visibly scratched or scored, or has cracks in it, you need to remove it from the engine and take to a machine shop for resurfacing.
	21.01.2006 Old clutch The poor clutch shows painful signs of trying to hold the stage3 power.

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