Boost gauge installation on a 1996 Saab 900. This should work for most T5 cars. For T7, see this guide.

 

Click to see the next picture
17.04.2004: The kit
A Cyberdyne Ultragage boost/vacuum gauge kit (part #A213E061Y) bought on eBay. It contains a gauge, a sender, some tubing and other supplies.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Vacuum line
Locate the vacuum line going from the throttle body to the bypass valve.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Tap
Tap into the line (or replace the hose to keep a spare handy) and insert a tee.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Sender
Connect the sender unit and attach it into a secure spot. Tie the cable so it doesn't dangle around.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Fuse box
Undo the 10 mm nut holding the fuse box. Lift the box and move it aside.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Firewall
Locate the wire cluster going throught the firewall next to the clutch cable (or the clutch line). Unwrap the tape and cut the zip tie around it.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Lower panel
Undo Torx T25 screws on the lower panel. Unscrew the OBD II connector.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Fuse box
More screws around the fuses. Finally, a 10 mm bolt at the bottom, and the trim panel comes off.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Fuse box
Removing the fuze box is not absolutely necessary, but it gives you more room to do the wiring. Three Torx T25 screws.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Wire cluster
The rubber gaiter securing the wire cluster is found next to the clutch pedal.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Pipe
Push a piece of PVC pipe between the wires and the rubber sleeve so it comes out on the engine side.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Wire
Slide the sender unit signal wire through and remove the pipe. Zip-tie and wrap the rubber sleeve on the engine side.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: More wires
Connect a piece of wire to the ground nut under the dash. Connect another wire to the cigarette lighter fuse for a source of switched power. It is a good idea to have the battery disconnected prior to this.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Dash
Many 2"1/16 gauges will fit right in, but you will need to cut the plastic inside the headlight switch socket. I decided to pop the dashboard to attach the display from the rear. Follow this guide for dashboard removal.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Wiring
Trim and crimp the wires from the sender, as well as your power and ground lines.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Gauge
Attach mating connectors to the gauge display unit.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Test run
Connect the wires, double check everything and do a test run. After you start the car, you should see 15-16 Hg of vacuum at idle.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Headlight switch
The headlight switch will rest inside the dashboard set to the "headlights on" position. Saab DRLs run the headlights full on anyway, so it won't make much difference.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Wrapped
Wrap the switch into something so it doesn't rattle inside the dash.

 

Click to see the next picture
05.11.2005: Finished
Job complete. The gauge is nicely illuminated at night.

 

Click to see the next picture
07.03.2006: On
It's clearly visible in the bright sun.

 

Click to see the next picture
07.03.2006: Off
Nice and stealthy when the car is shut off.

  [return to index]

 

 

 
Copyright © 2000-2013 Dmitry Platonoff
All rights reserved.