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12.02.2005: Inner bushing
The inner control arm bushing is a simple rubber piece with a metal insert, so you can easily press it out with a gear puller.

A front suspension upgrade performed on a 1996 Saab 900SE turbo. The goal was to replace the old and worn components with new parts. The pictures show the work done at the right front corner. Parts from Taliaferro Imports, shox.com and eBay. See also the rear suspension installation.

The job took me several days, as you can see from the dates on the photos. Unfortunately, I was short on spare time and could only spend a couple of hours a day in the evening. With all the tools at hand, proper preparations, and without the unexpected interruptions, the work can be done in one day. A second person would speed things up as well.

Tools and supplies:

  • 32 mm (1¼") socket: hub centre nut;
  • 24 mm wrench: retainer nut on top of the strut, new outer bushing bolt;
  • 18 mm socket: tie rod nut;
  • 18 mm wrench: ball joint nut;
  • 17 mm socket: wheel bolts;
  • 16 mm socket: stanchion arm to subframe bolt;
  • 15 mm socket: control arm to subframe bolt;
  • 13 mm socket: lower sway bar link nut, strut mount nuts;
  • 11 mm socket: top of the original damper rod;
  • 11 mm open wrench: upper part of sway bar link;
  • 10 mm socket: belt shield screws;
  • 10 mm Allen key: caliper bolts;
  • 8 mm socket: belt shield screws;
  • 7 mm Allen key: top of the Bilstein damper rod;
  • 5 mm Allen key: ABS sensor screws, rotor index screw;
  • Torx T55 key: original stanchion arm to control arm bolt;
  • torque wrench;
  • pipe wrench (60 mm): strut insert sleeve nut;
  • car jack and axle stands;
  • ball joint separator or large Pitman gear puller;
  • spring compressor;
  • C-clamp: for tightening tie rod ends;
  • breaker bar;
  • vice-grips;
  • large screw extractor (6 mm);
  • hammer and rubber mallet;
  • loctite, anti-seize, silicone/moly chassis grease, rust solvent.

 

 
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