Raise the car and remove the right front wheel. The pictures are a bit
dark, it was 23:00 ;)
Remove the plastic belt shield: 5 screws with 8 mm hex head.
Remove the bracket on top of the engine mount: the central nut is 18 mm, and
the four bolts on the sides need a 16 mm socket.
Unbolt a hose clamp under the crankshaft pulley so you can fit a wedge
under the power steering line (10 mm socket).
WIS recommends inserting a wedge between the engine and the frame (I used
this big wrench). It seems that you still need to jack up the engine from
below as you might need to move it a bit later to align the enging mount
A 1/2" socket extension fits perfectly as a lever to relieve the strain
off the belt tensioner. Once the belt is off, check these two pulleys --
their bearings will likely be worn, loose and rattling if the car is
over 100K km.
Allen 8 mm
The clearance around the tensioner pulley is very tight, so it's often
easier to remove the entire tensioner. You'll need an 8 mm Allen key for
that. Mounting torque 33 ft-lbs.
Once the tensioner is off, soak the pulley bolt with a good solvent before
taking on it. The 6 mm Allen key socket on the bolt is very shallow and
easy to strip.
Luckily, the replacement tensioner pulley comes with new bolt that has a
good old hex head.
The small idler hasn't changed. You need a 13 mm socket for that bolt.
The new belt is shorter than the old one. My local dealership didn't
have this part in stock, so I picked up a belt from a NAPA store
Note how the new belt goes directly from the small idler to the steering
pump, bypassing the big idler in the middle (the idler is hiding behind
the engine mount).
Fit the engine mount bracket with a tightening torque of 39 ft-lbs for the
bolts and 78 ft-lbs for the central nut. Fit the belt shield, the wheel,
and lower the car to the floor.