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A turbocharged car without a boost gauge is no fun. It's not that you really need it, but knowing what's really happening with your engine helps a bit, and the pressure surges when you mash the pedal sure are entertaining.

My car was among those unfortunate Saabs that came without a boost gauge (not that the standard one is very useful though), and I long wanted to fix that. Here's a detailed (maybe too detailed) description of the installation process. (And I did wash the engine a couple of days after performing this work ;)

The measurements I'm getting from a 1999 Saab 9-5 2.3t with a low pressure turbo are: the vacuum is 18-20 Hg at idle, 15 Hg while driving, up to 24 Hg when coasting. With the stock engine the boost during the moderate acceleration settled around 5 psi, the highest I've seen at WOT is 9 psi. An ECU upgrade from BSR raised these numbers to 12-13 psi in second gear and 14-15 psi in third.

 

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17.04.2004: The kit
A Cyberdyne Ultragage boost/vacuum gauge kit (part #A213E061Y) bought on eBay. It contains a gauge, a sender, some tubing and other stuff.

 

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17.04.2004: The gauge
I know I could've gotten an analog gauge for half the price, but I'm a digital freak, I like numbers and precision ;).

 

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17.04.2004: The sending unit
The sending unit is sealed for good, it has a nipple for the vacuum hose and a signal wire for the gauge.

 

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17.04.2004: The hose
The tees are a buck a piece from your favourite parts store. This one is dirty as I've just tried to fit it on a car.

 

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17.04.2004: The engine
Our primary points of interest today would be the intake manifold and the big fuse box. The engine is filthy, and I'm sorry for that. Should have done the spring cleaning first.

 

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17.04.2004: Disconnecting the battery
Always a good idea when you're planning to mess with wiring.

 

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17.04.2004: The lower dash
To find a suitable place to get through the firewall, remove the lower dash cover. There are three T25 torx screws holding it.

 

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17.04.2004: OBD-II connector
Remove two more screws, unless you want the cover hanging on the OBD-II connector wires.

 

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17.04.2004: Holes in the firewall
A sysadmin would be shocked by a sentence like this ;). In our case in only means there are two clusters of wires coming through the firewall.

 

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17.04.2004: Fuse boxes
Looking from the engine side, the access to one cluster is blocked by the strut tower and the fuse boxes are blocking the other. I pick the fuse boxes.

 

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17.04.2004: Small fuse box
First, remove the cover from the smaller box.

 

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17.04.2004: Disconnecting the cables
Then unbolt the cables using a 10 mm socket.

 

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17.04.2004: Removing components
Push the latches, and the smaller box pops right up. The bigger box is secured with three nuts -- two are in the open, and the third one is under the master brake cylinder.

 

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17.04.2004: Almost there
Move the fuse boxes out of the way and remove another connector assembly (lift the rubber trim to get it out).

 

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17.04.2004: The cable sleeve
The rubber sleeve around the cables is ziptied and wrapped with dirty vinyl tape. We'll get rid of that.

 

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17.04.2004: A handy pipe
The sender cable is rather soft, so I will use this plastic pipe to get the wire through the sleeve.

 

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17.04.2004: The engine side
After some pushing and wiggling the pipe comes out on the engine side.

 

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17.04.2004: Inserting the wire
The wire goes in...

 

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17.04.2004: Coming through
...and comes out under the dash.

 

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17.04.2004: Pipe removed
Find a good way to pass the cable to the top of the dash to the A-pillar and fasten it.

 

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17.04.2004: Engine cover
Now we need to find a place to tap for the boost pressure. First, remove the engine cover.

 

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17.04.2004: Cover removed
A nipple on top of the intake manifold looks very promising.

 

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17.04.2004: Front view
There are two hoses coming out of it, and the top one is so inviting!

 

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17.04.2004: Side view
It usually is not a good idea to cut the hoses on a car, and fortunately there's a conveniently placed tee we could tap into.

 

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17.04.2004: Removing the hose
First, remove one of the old hoses from the tee.

 

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17.04.2004: Old hose to new tee
Then connect it to the new tee we prepared during the step 4.

 

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17.04.2004: New hose to old tee
And finally connect the short end of the hose to the original tee.

 

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17.04.2004: Lots of hoses
This piece would be easy to remove later in case you'd want to sell the car. The long end in the right now runs to the sending unit.

 

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17.04.2004: The sending unit
Time to connect it to the unit and secure the new hose so it doesn't rub against anything.

 

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17.04.2004: Pulling the wire in
Pull the remaining cable through the sleeve leaving only a short end. Seal the sleeve with a new ziptie and some tape.

 

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17.04.2004: Securing the unit
Fasten the sending unit well and bolt the fuse boxes back in place. Check if everything is connected properly.

 

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17.04.2004: Connecting the wires
The gauge needs the ground and the 12V power. The ground nut is right at hand (10 mm again) and the cigarette lighter fuse would donor the power.

 

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17.04.2004: Test drive
Out for a test drive. A healthy 20 Hg vacuum at idle is on display.

 

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17.04.2004: Wiring done
Everything is put back together, and the wires are coming out at the base of the A-pillar.

 

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17.04.2004: The gauge
The gauge comes with a memory button. Why haven't they just built it right into the face plate?

 

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17.04.2004: Button installed
Ah, well, an aluminum bracket will do.

 

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17.04.2004: Plastic bottle
I didn't get a pod for the gauge, and now I didn't want it dangling on its wires while I'm driving in search for one, so I cut the top of a plastic bottle.

 

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17.04.2004: Masking tape
Painting it inside looked like a good idea.

 

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17.04.2004: All black
Luckily, I had some black paint too.

 

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17.04.2004: Mounted
The wires are connected, and the gauge sticks surprisingly tight between the pillar and the dash. It should hold until I find a suitable pod.

 

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17.04.2004: Night
It's a bit too bright at night, but we'll adjust that.

 

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18.04.2004: Day
Good visibility in the daylight.

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